Cruising on the Sapphire Princess to South America During the Holidays

Cruising to Central and South America in December on the Sapphire Princess

Dec. 2-22, 20022

My adult children were really busy with their lives this last Christmas, so my partner and I decided to explore an area we had never been before by cruiseboat.  Now cruising is very expensive, but if you wait till the end of the year, there are often bargains, and we found a 14-day cruise going to Baja Peninsula, Costa Rica, Peru, and Chile on the Sapphire Princess.  This ship is one of the premier ships of the fleet for gourmet food and especially chocolate desserts.  The staff was outstanding and the activities were so much fun. We started in Los Angeles and ended in Santiago, Chile.  

I have been on cruises before, but this one was special.  It was a holiday cruise and my 65th birthday was on the ship.  

(Dec. 2) -we travelled to Los Angeles Airport and took a taxi to to the port.  Boarding the ship was fun.  It felt like there was a party going on.  We immediately went to explore the ship and find our cabin.  This time we had a balcony, because at the last minute, they let us "bid" for the empty balconies.  I won one for $200.  Getting to know the ship takes time.  There are many nooks and crannies to explore. 

(Dec. 3) at Sea-we found out the ship's jewelry shop onboard was giving away free charms each day to commemorate the cruise...so we ended up collecting the little Princess Boat charm and 11 more after that.  It made a really fun necklace.  

(Dec. 4) Cabo San Lucas, Mexico- we took a snorkeling tour that was a bit rocky on the water and slightly disappointing as the corals were not very healthy and they boat fed bread to the fish.  We did see a nice island of seals though as we were going to to snorkel.   

(Dec. 5-8) at Sea-going across the Date Line-celebration occurs on the top deck when you pass the dateline from North to South America.  King Neptune must be appeased and all must "kiss the fish," who encounter his wrath.  We had our first formal dinner night.  Oh my, we dressed up nice, and the food was delightful.  

(Dec. 9) Puntarenas, Costa Rica-we took the Jungle Crocodile River Cruise and saw so many new birds.  I would like to come back here again and stay for a while.

(Dec. 10-12) at Sea

(Dec.13-15)-Lima Peru -was definitely in political unrest, so we spent the day on a tour of Lovers Park and shopping for baby alpaca wool near the shore, without venturing into the historic part of Peru.    We then walked to the "Indian Market" to buy some gifts for the kids.  

The next evening, we went to the National Light Show at the downtown city park.  Interestingly, we never made it to the historic part of downtown, because of all the rioting that was going on.  The light show was spectacular.

We took a tour to go see some petroglyphs today and then had lunch at a local vineyard and they served Pisco, which is the local favorite "brandy."  Very strong, but served with a lime juice that cuts the alcohol.  

(Dec. 15-17) at Sea-gold and white night at dinner.

We missed out on seeing penguins on day 16 because the political unrest had become so volatile, the Captain of the ship made a decision not to dock again in Peru.  The waters are now becoming a bit rocky as we are moving to the bottom of the southern continent where two oceans come together.  Though we are not going to the Antarctica-we are starting to experience the beginning of the "Drake Shake" that occurs when the ship goes through the Drake Passage.  They did have some great food for dinner that night.  So glad I don't get seasick, though this night I did actually feel the wave action a bit and took some Dramamine that put me right to sleep that night.  

(Dec.18) La Serena Coquimbo, Chile-we went to visit the Archeological Museum there and learned about the pre-historic to modern-day inhabitants of Chile.  

(Dec. 19-22) Santiago, Chile-we disembarked, took a local bus to the city bus depot, and got a taxi to our hotel in downtown Santiago.  I really loved this part of the trip.  We were able to spend some time in Chile's capital and I was able to use a little of the Spanish I have been learning.  Our hotel was delightful.  We were situated right next to the City Park that rises above the city and you can look out everywhere.  The hotel restaurant served breakfast and tea indoors, but the rooftop at night was magical.  I was one of my favorite moments in Santiago; a cheese board and a beautiful wine, followed by empanadas.  

We went to several museums, but the most interesting one had historic and modern-day weaving.  I could not get enough of the weavings.  They were so beautiful.  The modern ones were lit with colorful lights than enhanced their shapes.  

We hiked all the way across town to Pablo Neruda's residence, which ended up being closed, but the walk was so interesting...by this time, my knee, which was due to be replaced as soon as we got home, was really starting to bother me.  I don't know why we are so stubborn about taking taxis, but both my partner and I like walking and seeing portions of the city that would zip by in a taxi.  We saw so many murals (both political and artistic) as we walked. Finally, we gave in near the city zoo and sat down and had some delicious meat and cheese empanadas.  

Day 21-we spent a nice morning at the hotel and then got the fastest taxi I have ever been in to the airport. The driver did not seem fazed by the fact that my partner and I were white-knuckle all the way to the airport.  We both agreed that the next time we come to this part of the world, we are going to see Penguins and make it to Antarctica.  We were so close.  The next part of the journey for the Sapphire Princess was Antarctica, but we had to get home, as I was going in for a new knee.  

Rocky Point (Puerto Penasco) and the Sea of Cortez, Mexico

Rocky Point (Puerto Penasco) Mexico

Years ago I read John Steinbeck's The Log From the Sea of Cortez and always dreamed of visiting that part of Mexico,  As a wildlife biologist, the flora and fauna of that area have always had a certain lure for me.  The Sea of Cortez is now only 4 hours by car from me.  How lucky for me that I was invited by my Tucson biking buddy Molly to go down in September to visit the eastern edge of the Sea of Cortez.  Her father's house is in a little community just south of the town of Rocky Point (Puerto Penasco).  So I loaded my bathing suit, binoculars and sun hat, and got in the car with 3 dogs and trekked down to Rocky Point.  The trip down was without incident in the typical Arizona desert, but I will mention that a nice stop to make about 3 hours in is the Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument.  I have been there several times, and love their Visitor's Center.  The dogs needed a break and water, so I did a little Christmas shopping. 

To get to Rocky Point, you must enter Mexico from Lukeville, Arizona port of entry (with passport).  Molly recommended we go early and on an off-time for the weekend.  I think we crossed about 2 p.m. with no wait. Did I mention this was going to be Labor Day Weekend, so you had to be pretty strategic about the entry.  After crossing, we slowly careened our way through the little border town at 25 mph as this is the place where you will get a ticket for speeding.  It took about 75 more minutes before we arrived at Rocky Point. I have heard several interesting stories about the road between the border and this town.  Let's suffice to say, have a full tank before you cross the border and keep going until you get to Rocky Point. 

We spent a week in this town and the surrounding area.  It was hot and muggy in September, but the ocean is also warm.  During the week, we visited a variety of restaurants that served a diversity of food.  The first restaurant that we went to was La Negrita where Molly ordered shrimp in a giant glass with lots of salsa (Mexican shrimp cocktail) and I had enchiladas... so good.  We also visited Wrecked at the Reef (right next to the ocean), Pan e Vino (spectacular seafood pizza), and El Capitan (beautiful sunset and nice after-dinner cocktails).

For a special treat we drove about 15 miles south of town to the Santo Coyote Restaurant, which was in the tall Encantame Towers.  That place has a special ambiance, and is very romantic at night. 

We stayed in a house that was right next to the ocean, and for shell collectors this was paradise.  There is an abundance and diversity of shells, big and small along the shorelines make beach-combing a real adventure in this area.

     

The highlight of the week for me was the trip we took to Bird Island (Isla San Jorge).  This hot spot of diversity can be reached by a one-hour ride boat ride that cost us 89$/person.  We booked right down on the dock with a "wandering salesman" who directed us to where were needed to pay.  This small set of islands, covered in bird guano was with thick with Seals, Sea lions, and so many seabirds.  The seabirds included Brown pelicans,  Blue-footed boobies, and Frigate birds.  I snorkeled close to the island, but the water was a little too murky to see corals as a storm that had passed through.  I knew I was a little too close to the island, because the seals were swimming under me, so I backed off to admire the birds.

One other place of interest we visited was the Cedo Research Complex, which is doing marine research in the Gulf of California (also called the Sea of Cortez). There was little interpretation there, but they have a large whale carcass that is interesting to view and a shop that had some pretty cool shirts and dresses that support the research. 

I spent time with Molly's neighbors and walked the neighborhood.  It was fun to see the little burrowing owls that inhabit areas in between the neighbors houses.  This community really is right between a wetland and the ocean.  The neighbors were warm and inviting.  I could understand why Molly's family likes to go down to their house to escape Arizona every once in a while.  After a week, we headed back to Tucson.  I will come back here...there is so much to explore...but maybe in a cooler part of the year.

Anchorage, Mt. Denali, and Prince William Sound, Alaska

During the late 1980s, I lived in Ketchikan, Alaska for 5 years doing my Ph.D. research. I was so busy with research and the birth of my first child that I never had a chance to get to Denali National Park or Prince William Sound in the Northwest part of Alaska.  These areas have been on my Life List for a long time.  My partner and I got a chance to take a cool tour called "Jewels of Alaska" by Insight Vacations this year. During September while we were in Alaska, we got to bus, train, fly, and boat to some really unique spots in Alaska.  

We flew into Anchorage from Las Vegas.  We spent the first and part of the last day in and around Anchorage.  The murals in this town are culturally sensitive and pretty cool.  I was surprised at how hip the little town is even though it has not changed that much since I was there 30 some years ago.  I got to taste a "reindeer dog" which I found out is not wild, but domesticated caribou.  It was pretty yummy.

We immediately left on the bus the next morning for Talkeetna.  For years, I had heard about this little town...near Mount Denali.    It did not disappoint.  The "downtown" of this little village was 2 blocks proper, but wow-- the art and shopping were spectacular.  We stayed for a couple of days near the town at the Talkeetna Lodge.  This is where I got my first look at Mt. Denali (renamed from Mt. McKinley to the proper native name).  There was only two restaurants at the Lodge, but we sat out on the porch and watched Mt. Denali reveal itself with an order of clams that were yummy.  Only 30% of the tourists in Alaska ever get to see this mountain as it is always shrouded in clouds.  We were lucky enough to have 3 clear days before the rain set in.  

Mt. Denali and clams

While we were at the Talkeetna Lodge, we booked a trip to fly into and land on Ruth Glacier of Denali Mountain.  This was not cheap, but a memory of a lifetime.  That is really what we are looking for on these travels.  

Top of Denali Mountain-actually a mile away

Standing on Ruth Glacier

Glacial scenes from the plane

After leaving Talkeetna, we travelled by train up to the town of Denali right outside of Denali National Park.  Though the highway runs from Fairbanks down to Anchorage, this was the mode of travel before cars.  We really enjoyed the lunch service and looking out from the back of the train. 

We arrived in late afternoon to Denali and the National Park, staying at Denali Lodge, which overlooked the valley.  We went to dinner at the 49th State Brewery in Cantwell, just north of Denali.  If any of you have read Into the Wild, this is the town where McCandless started his Alaskan part of the his journey to find the Magic Bus.  The actual bus has now been moved to University of Alaska, because so many people tried and failed (and had to be rescued) to find the bus.  However, the Brewery had a facsimile of the bus that was used in the movie.  The food was spectacular, but the beer--oh my, I had a margarita beer, which was life imbibing a beer and margarita. Don't judge me:-)

"Into the Wild" bus at the 49 State Brewery used in the movie

Margarita beer at the 49th State Brewery

My favorite day of this trip was taking the National Park bus into Denali National Park.  You cannot drive, and therefore must take the bus.  In all my years, I have always been the one traversing the landscape looking for the flora and fauna.  But this time, I got to be the observer in the bus.  This bus trip, which lasts for about 4 hours was mind boggling.  In the course of half an hour, I saw wild caribou, grizzly bear, wolves stocking caribou, arctic ground squirrels, a wolverine loping across the landscape (very special), Dahl sheep, and Ptarmigans.  Pretty spectacular.

  

Caribou in Denali National Park

     

Glacial valleys and Arctic squirrel in Denali National Park

After Denali National Park, we headed by bus, down to Prince William Sound for the 24-glaciers Cruise.  It is hard to describe the magnitude of a glacier.   They are as large as a building and can be as wide as a valley.  All I know is that I am always humbled when I see them.  Glaciers may not exist in the next century with global warming, so I feel as if I am seeing history before my eyes.  

Surprise Glacier, which often calves in front of the boats

This was our last day in Alaska.  Unfortunately, neither I or my partner felt very well.  One of our compatriots was coughing for the entire tour.  We ended up both getting COVID.  In retrospect, if we would have known what was going to happen would we have gone?  Absolutely.  We took a hike up in Denali National Park, and along one of the large rivers we came upon a sweatshirt that someone had left.  I think this sums up what we think about Alaska.  We will be back.  

A Quick Stop to Colorado

 Colorado and Maroon Bells Wilderness

August 2022

The end of summer always coincides with a visit to my home state of Colorado.  This year, we were coming from Honolulu, so we overnighted in Seattle before continuing on to Denver.  How delightful to know that the mussels we ordered for our dinner would be fresh and delicious.  I will likely mistrust any shellfish, for the rest of my life, unless I can see the waters of the Pacific Ocean from my table.  

Seattle mussels

We flew from Seattle to Denver to arrive for a family reunion.  My youngest daughter was able to make this event as she was working there at the time.  So fun to see all my cousins, Aunts, and Uncles.  We were pretty tired, but managed to find a fantastic Nepalese restaurant that my vegan-minded daughter could enjoy.  

We took a pilgrimage ride down to Colorado Springs to hike in the Garden of the Gods with cousin and daughter.  Big mistake to go to this place on a Sunday.  It was crazy crowded, but we managed to get a good little hike in and lunch after.  Lesson learned-come very early and expect to park far away.  I included an old picture of what Garden of the Gods looked like in the early 1900s.  I guess I should not complain:-)

The next day, we took off for Glenwood Springs.  It was our launching spot for the Maroon Bells Wilderness.  Though we did not visit the famous swimming pool and hot springs in this town, it was right next door to us.  To be truthful, it was just too hot to go to the swimming pool.  We opted for a hike later in the evening to visit the gravesite of two famous western outlaws; Kid Curry and Doc Holiday.  The graveyard that they are purported to be in is a hefty 1/2 mile hike uphill from near the center of town.  We later learned that Doc Holiday likely died of tuberculosis and penniless as it was a pauper's grave.  What I liked about their graves is that people have left alcohol and other small items that each of the outlaws might have liked.

Doc Holiday's grave above Glenwood Springs 

We drove to Aspen, and parked at the Aspen parking lot for the Maroon Bells bus. 

Enjoying the Aspen lifestyle

This was not cheap.  It cost us $25 for the bus ticket and $40 to park.  But if any of you have been to Maroon Bells Wilderness as a child, you will know that it was almost destroyed by cars and tourist abuse.  We gladly paid for the privilege of seeing that ecosystem recover and noted that the hiking trails were not over-crowded.  It was a perfect day into the wilderness.  Not to hot or cold...well maybe some pretty aggressive deerflies  (note to self-bring bug spray next time).  

The Maroon Bells took my breath away and reminded me of the thoughts I had as a child...of how magical the place was.  It was one of the places that began my journey into ecology.  My partner was pretty blown away by the beauty as well.  We spent about half the day there and then the flies drove us away.  

Such beautiful trails in the Maroon Bell Wilderness

We motored back to Aspen and the spent the afternoon with the rich and famous.  Colorado you beautiful and wild girl.  I will never stop coming back.  Thank you for the privilege of knowing your wildness.  The next morning, we hopped back in the car and drove to the airport.  It only takes a few days, but this State always fills my soul.