Thursday, October 27, 2022

Anchorage, Mt. Denali, and Prince William Sound, Alaska

During the late 1980s, I lived in Ketchikan, Alaska for 5 years doing my Ph.D. research. I was so busy with research and the birth of my first child that I never had a chance to get to Denali National Park or Prince William Sound in the Northwest part of Alaska.  These areas have been on my Life List for a long time.  My partner and I got a chance to take a cool tour called "Jewels of Alaska" by Insight Vacations this year. During September while we were in Alaska, we got to bus, train, fly, and boat to some really unique spots in Alaska.  

We flew into Anchorage from Las Vegas.  We spent the first and part of the last day in and around Anchorage.  The murals in this town are culturally sensitive and pretty cool.  I was surprised at how hip the little town is even though it has not changed that much since I was there 30 some years ago.  I got to taste a "reindeer dog" which I found out is not wild, but domesticated caribou.  It was pretty yummy.

We immediately left on the bus the next morning for Talkeetna.  For years, I had heard about this little town...near Mount Denali.    It did not disappoint.  The "downtown" of this little village was 2 blocks proper, but wow-- the art and shopping were spectacular.  We stayed for a couple of days near the town at the Talkeetna Lodge.  This is where I got my first look at Mt. Denali (renamed from Mt. McKinley to the proper native name).  There was only two restaurants at the Lodge, but we sat out on the porch and watched Mt. Denali reveal itself with an order of clams that were yummy.  Only 30% of the tourists in Alaska ever get to see this mountain as it is always shrouded in clouds.  We were lucky enough to have 3 clear days before the rain set in.  

Mt. Denali and clams

While we were at the Talkeetna Lodge, we booked a trip to fly into and land on Ruth Glacier of Denali Mountain.  This was not cheap, but a memory of a lifetime.  That is really what we are looking for on these travels.  

Top of Denali Mountain-actually a mile away

Standing on Ruth Glacier

Glacial scenes from the plane

After leaving Talkeetna, we travelled by train up to the town of Denali right outside of Denali National Park.  Though the highway runs from Fairbanks down to Anchorage, this was the mode of travel before cars.  We really enjoyed the lunch service and looking out from the back of the train. 



We arrived in late afternoon to Denali and the National Park, staying at Denali Lodge, which overlooked the valley.  We went to dinner at the 49th State Brewery in Cantwell, just north of Denali.  If any of you have read Into the Wild, this is the town where McCandless started his Alaskan part of the his journey to find the Magic Bus.  The actual bus has now been moved to University of Alaska, because so many people tried and failed (and had to be rescued) to find the bus.  However, the Brewery had a facsimile of the bus that was used in the movie.  The food was spectacular, but the beer--oh my, I had a margarita beer, which was life imbibing a beer and margarita. Don't judge me:-)

"Into the Wild" bus at the 49 State Brewery used in the movie

Margarita beer at the 49th State Brewery

My favorite day of this trip was taking the National Park bus into Denali National Park.  You cannot drive, and therefore must take the bus.  In all my years, I have always been the one traversing the landscape looking for the flora and fauna.  But this time, I got to be the observer in the bus.  This bus trip, which lasts for about 4 hours was mind boggling.  In the course of half an hour, I saw wild caribou, grizzly bear, wolves stocking caribou, arctic ground squirrels, a wolverine loping across the landscape (very special), Dahl sheep, and Ptarmigans.  Pretty spectacular.
  

Caribou in Denali National Park

     
Glacial valleys and Arctic squirrel in Denali National Park

After Denali National Park, we headed by bus, down to Prince William Sound for the 24-glaciers Cruise.  It is hard to describe the magnitude of a glacier.   They are as large as a building and can be as wide as a valley.  All I know is that I am always humbled when I see them.  Glaciers may not exist in the next century with global warming, so I feel as if I am seeing history before my eyes.  




Surprise Glacier, which often calves in front of the boats

This was our last day in Alaska.  Unfortunately, neither I or my partner felt very well.  One of our compatriots was coughing for the entire tour.  We ended up both getting COVID.  In retrospect, if we would have known what was going to happen would we have gone?  Absolutely.  We took a hike up in Denali National Park, and along one of the large rivers we came upon a sweatshirt that someone had left.  I think this sums up what we think about Alaska.  We will be back.  






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